El Partido de Futból

By Cameron

Those who know me well are aware of my love for sports. I would call it a passion, an obsession and an addiction all in one. I can watch games or read about sports on the internet for hours. I even wake up in the middle of the night thinking about sports. I love team sports like my brother Zach loves music. I love the competition, the skill, the teamwork, and most of all my teams. Though it’s more enjoyable and far less stressful for me to watch sports without allegiances, I always get emotionally involved. From my alma mater UW Huskies and hometown Seahawks, Mariners and Sonics, to my 8th grade Valley View Middle School football and basketball teams, the games consume me. I can not adequately explain this to a non-sports fan, or even a casual sports fan, but if you have ever had a passion for something, you might begin to understand. Fortunately, my interests in such things as travel, adventure, music, food, humor, current events, teaching and learning all keep me reasonably balanced, and capable of relating to people other than fellow sports freaks. Moving to South America was a culmination of these other interests, though not surprisingly I still check the internet almost daily to keep up with my teams at home. I even watched the NCAA basketball championship game on TV last week. One game in 2.5 months, however, does not suffice. While working 4 days a week, trying to learn Spanish muy rapido, and traveling on some weekends keeps me reasonably busy, I need to scratch that itch. I didn’t have to look very far…

Behold, El Partido de Futból! I have always enjoyed watching soccer during important international tournaments such as the World Cup, and now I am learning to appreciate the game on a much higher level. It may not be North America’s greatest game, but it’s the world’s greatest game. Soccer is played with remarkable skill and unbelievable conditioning. Even a 1-0 game, which might be called “boring” by some, can be a beautifully played match. The beauty of the game can also be appreciated just as easily in a dusty field or abandoned lot, reminding me of how an ordinary pick-up game of basketball can become legendary to those involved. There are several games on TV each week and some of the best teams in South America play live in Santiago. I’m following the futból leagues and tournaments very closely, reading the sports page and talking about futból every chance I get. (My Spanish vocabulary may be limited to futból, but at least it’s practical). As I write, I am watching an excellent game on TV between the top two teams in Brazil: Palermos and Sao Paulo. The star player of Palermos is Jorge Valdivia, a ball handling wizard and one of the top players from Chile. Like proud fathers the Chilean broadcast team calls the game as if Valdivia is playing the entire Sao Paulo team by himself. Jorge has just scored his second goal for the 2-0 lead.

“GOÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓÓL!”

The world’s greatest game is much more than a sport in South America. The game inspires a sense of pride, hope, and togetherness for many people. The investment in a team is personal and very meaningful. Consequently, the fans bring drama to the game of soccer unlike any other sport. They sing, dance, chant, scream, fight, and cry with each win, loss or tie. You only need to watch one South American international match on TV to understand this. My allegiance to teams may be considered fanatical, but it’s nothing like this. Yet I find the support amazing, and I want to be a part of it. I have my eye on an international game between Chile and Bolivia, on June 14th in Buenos Aires. I will be the tall, lanky gringo in a sea of red, wrapped in a Chilean flag with a painted face, chanting with the crowd, “CHI! CHI! CHI! LE! LE! LE! CHILE!”

Fans are also every bit as passionate about professional teams as they are about supporting their national team. The Chilean professional leagues consist of dozens of teams from all regions of the country, but within the A-League there are three elite teams (all based in Santiago) that split the majority of the fan base. Colo Colo is the most popular and historically has the strongest resume, but they are having an average season and team turmoil is a top story on the nightly news. This is all made more interesting by the fact that Colo Colo fans have a bad reputation, and they seem to live up to it after a bad loss. Everyone tells me to be extremely careful at a Colo Colo game, others say don’t go at all. On the other hand, if you want to experience futból in Chile, you have to go to a Colo Colo game! Universidad Catolica is currently at the top of the league. Fans of UC are typically more affluent and less obnoxious, but no less passionate. Universidad de Chile (“La U”) is having a strong season, led by Marcelo Salas ("El Matador"), the all time leading goal scorer for the Chilean International Team. At 33, Salas has returned from an excellent pro career in Argentina (River Plate), to reunite with the Chilean club team he started with several years ago. This is special for Chilean soccer fans, not only because Salas is still in good form, but also because Chile’s best players are currently playing with elite club teams in Argentina, Brazil, and Mexico, where the money is better. (The infrastructure of professional soccer in Chile is below average). UC and La U play next week for first place in the league. All three teams are also involved in an exclusive Latin American tournament called Copa Libratadores, playing other top club teams to decide the best team in South America. This is the best time for professional futból in Chile.

Last week we attended our first futból match, a Super Classico (rivalry game) between Colo Colo and La U at Estadio Nacional, the home stadium of La U. I originally planned to go with my Chilean friend Raul, but he had to cancel because of work. Raul is a Colo Colo fan, and naturally he wants me to be a Colo Colo fan also. He recommended that still I attend the game with friends, of course using common sense and leaving all valuables at home. He also helped me pick out seats on the internet that would be “more safe” and consequently “more expensive”. The seats he recommended were $24 each, about $18 more than seats in the “Galleria”, where the fanatics are. These games have a reputation for being dangerous, so naturally I was disappointed that Raul was not able to accompany, but I was confident that he gave me sound advice. Debbie didn’t need much convincing. She loves a good party and tends to give all people the benefit of the doubt. We invited Tyler and Lindsey, a couple from Seattle who live in our building, and they invited their German friend Inga.

There was a game day buzz in the city, kind of like on a Seahawks Sunday or Apple Cup, only it seamed more like tension than excitement. Colo Colo and La U fans were all dressed up and painted up in their colors, hanging out the windows of passing busses, waving flags and shouting at one another. Police were all over the subway terminals in full riot gear. We were drinking some cocktails up in our apartment, watching some of the action from the window. We saw some really drunk teenagers in Colo Colo garb throw rocks into the subway terminal, apparently aiming for La U fans, or maybe Police officers who denied them access to the subway. We arrived near the stadium about 30 minutes before game time. The streets were rather empty and it looked like a Colo Colo parade had just moved through. As it turns out, the fans typically arrive hours before the game to rally, and they fill the stadium well before kick-off to begin the celebration. We slipped into the crumbling stadium about five minutes before kick-off. The Galleries were packed. On one end of the stadium Colo Colo fans wore all white, the color of their away jerseys (black is the home color). On the other end the home team La U fans wore all blue. These fans do not sit together on game day, probably by design. In fact, they do not even enter or exit the stadium at the same end. Our section was near the Colo Colo Gallery, but separated by a large prison-yard fence. The fans in our section were for Colo Colo, but this was a group was more relaxed, consisting of mostly fathers and sons, husbands and wives, and other sober people. The best seats in the whole stadium (near mid field) were mostly empty. These are the $40 seats, an unreasonable price for even an upper middle class person. In support for their respective team, fans at both ends of the stadium hurled synchronized chants across the field toward the other. Every person was jumping up and down, pumping their fists. It looked like a pre-battle scene from the movie Braveheart, and if not for the prison-yard fences and riot police, they would have charged. The intensity of the singing and chanting never let up for the entire game. Comparing it to an American Football game, it would be like Seahawks fans out of their seats, screaming “Lets Go Hawks” all together, while also watching every last move of the game, for the entire contest. Then add, war drums, illegal fireworks, flares, and the occasional burning flag. Colo Colo fell behind 1-0 in the first half on a goal assisted by Marcelo Salas. In the second half, fans began to lose their patience. Repeated fires broke out in the Gallery, which prompted the riot police to spray the crowd with fire extinguishers and fire hoses. La U fans grew increasingly celebratory as the second half wore on, and the team eventually held on for the win. Thanks to the fans, it was a very exciting game to watch. When the momentum of the match seemed to slow down, we could always turn to the crowd for entertainment. We all had an awesome time. For me, it was an excellent first South American soccer experience, watching a Super Classico between two of Chile’s best pro teams, and one of the greatest Chilean players of all time, “El Matador” Marcelo Salas.
After the game, Police systematically closed off the Colo Colo crowd and ushered them out of the west end of the stadium. La Fans remained at the other end for several minutes to celebrate the huge win. Following the advice of “leave early” or “leave late”, we remained in our section until the Colo Colo fans were out of the Stadium. When we exited, police allowed us to exit toward the north, probably because we were gringos. At a completo stand (sausage dogs with guacamole and tomatoes) outside the stadium, a woman advised that we continue north, away from the crowd of Colo Colo fans moving west. It was probably good advice, as we found out later from some friends who live in that part of town. Some of the fans were throwing rocks at busses that would not stop for them, and a Chilean friend of ours was robbed of his beer after a trip to the store. We saw a few hooligans causing trouble on the way home as well, but nothing too serious. We made it home safely and agreed that it would be great to catch another live game in the near future.

Being a huge sports fan allowed me to fully appreciate the opportunity to attend this game, but even for the casual sports fan this was a genuine cultural experience, complete with the pride and passion that typifies the South American people. I have discovered a love for the game of futból here in Chile, one that will follow me home in a red Chilean National team jersey. Coincidently, Major League Soccer is also coming to Quest Field in Seattle next season! I will be doing my part to show everyone what it means to be a real fan.

Santiago de Chile Photos

Here are some highlights of the city:

Mendoza

By Debbie

We had the opportunity to travel to Mendoza, Argentina for the Semana Santa (Easter) weekend. This was a spectacular trip mainly because we got to sit atop a double decker bus (much to my delight) while we made our way over the windy roads of the Andes. Mendoza is the largest wine region in Argentina if not South America. We thought it was a beautiful town that seemed more Euro than places we'd visited in both Chile and Argentina. We spent the first day walking the plazas, enjoying street performers, and taking a city tour with the highlight being the Cerro San Martin (see photos of the statue). The second day we took a Bike and Wine tour in nearby Maipu (Not to be confused with CamsPoo)30 kilometers outside of Mendoza. Maipu is rural and poor unlike the city of Mendoza. The tour consisted of renting bikes for a full day to ride to 8 different wineries. We stopped at a fancy restaurant in the middle for an included lunch. By this time we had made fiends with 2 Israelis, 2 Brits, and another American guy, along with Emily and Becky, the two Americanas we were traveling with from Santiago. We were quite the international spectacle riding down the bikepath-less road. We had a great time at the wineries tasting good Argentine wine, despite the unwelcoming locals on the road. Every time a group passed us we heard a mocking "Hello, how are you?" the only English phrase they knew. Cam was spit at by a teenage girl while while nursing a broken pedal on the side of the road, and one member of our crew was knocked off her bike by a man on a motorcycle trying to snatch her bag. We were reminded that a beautiful place can be tainted by ugly people, but also realized this ill-behaved minority exists everywhere in the world. I won't deny that I've had my fair share of annoyances with oblivious tourists, however, this seemed extreme. We didn't let it ruin our trip or fun, and I'll recommend the Bikes & Wine Tour to anyone visiting Mendoza. We chose to move to South America for a reason and here you always have to exercise awareness and common sense (For example, don't ride down a dirt road in Argentina with your bag exposed or any bag at all). In a way it added some flavor to our South American pie.

TransSantiago

By Cameron

The public transportation system is the most controversial topic in Santiago. Michelle Bachelet, the first female President of Chile who had won over the country with her progressive ideals and continued efforts to compete in the global market, has seen her approval rating drop well below 50% in the last two years for one reason: TranSantiago. For a country scarred by brutal dictatorship in the 70s and 80s (see Pinochet), and considering a steadily growing economy and vastly improved social conditions, its surprising that public transportation is the primary political concern of most Santiagans. But like any other place, people seem to be most concerned with what most obviously affects their daily lives.
TransSantiago was created to unify and streamline the public transport system, by connecting the Metro (subway) lines with established bus routes. The new system went into effect just 2 years ago. Prior to this, busses were operated by dozens of private companies. Micros (busses) and Collectivos (minibuses) literally raced around and across the entire city, picking up as many passengers as possible. Speed limits were not enforced, and buses routes were not zoned. From what I understand it was chaotic and dangerous, but cheap and time effective.
Now there are only TranSantiago busses that operate within specified zones. Busses are frequent, but going to and from areas without metro service, the crowds build faster than some busses can load them. Commuting is complicated for many passengers because they are also required to transfer between zones. Major bottlenecks occur at these transfer stations. Rides are also very uncomfortable at peak hours when it’s more common to stand than sit. Most citizens of Santiago realize the system needed an overhaul, but they are very dissatisfied with the slow transition that has resulted in larger crowds and longer wait times. At present, most people are calling for more busses and extra routes.
More than 1/3 of Chileans citizens, or 6 million people, live in Santiago. The majority take public transit everyday. Like the US, the average person in Santiago works a long day. The work day starts for most people by 8:00 AM and ends around 5 or 6 PM. Many people spend one-two hours in transit, one way. At rush hour the subways and buses are packed full, with people standing in aisles and mashed up against the doors and windows. The few available seats are usually occupied by elderly folks and pregnant women, while everyone else is left standing, pressed against one another on all sides. Metros don’t have enough handles for everyone to hold, and bus drivers maneuver through traffic like maniacs, regularly slamming on breaks, causing standing passengers to depend on one another for balance and leverage. On an 80-90 degree day, this is unbearable. (Being aware of your wallet/bag is an added stress.) At certain combination hot spots, mobs of impatient people crowd the sidewalks and metro stations. The concept of forming lines and waiting your turn is non-existent, except at popular transfer locations where TranSantiago employees are sent to regulate crowds and loading, despite being deliberately ignored by an aggressive minority.
When a train or bus arrives, people cut, crowd and push toward the doors even before the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Picture a rugby scrum with handbags, where little old ladies also hold their own by using elbows to pry through the mob at waist height. Debbie has spent at least one trip literally pressed up against the front window of a bus, with armpits and butts in her face, and I have been elbowed in the sternum by a grandma. People regularly step right in front of us when the doors open. The only way to avoid being pushed aside is to stubbornly defend your space in the crowd. In my opinion, the citizens of Santiago need to take some ownership and responsibility of their own to make the system run more smoothly, which may require some education. Simply allowing a few extra minutes of travel time and learning to wait in line would go a long way. Unfortunately, Chileans are not known for arriving early. Most are already late. This may be an unfair generalization but I feel qualified to have an opinion since 3-4 times per week Debbie and I spend 2 hours per day in transit hell.
Though still very problematic, TranSantiago will eventually be a great victory for this city. Already the streets and busses are safer and the fledgling system is slowly becoming more efficient. It is also a step in the right direction toward better air quality since busses are now subject to emissions standards. There is space and potential for better infrastructure as well, like improved roads, additional travel lanes, and additional metro lines. For now the best strategy is to avoid rush hour whenever possible, when travel is faster, cheaper, and far less crowded. By doing this you actually get a glimpse of an efficient public transit system.