For every great memory I have, the beauty of the time and place has been defined by people and the realization that moments shared can always be relived. The Navimag ferry is no exception. The four day cruise through the temperate rainforest and fjords of the Patagonian channels was unforgettable, and I am fortunate to share it with Debbie, not to mention some one of a kind riff raff from around the world. There were our bunkmates Martin and Anna from London, Dianna the American English teacher living in Buenos Aires, Martin from Ireland, Stefan from Germany, Robia from Canada, Darius from Australia, Leroy the Ford Co. worker from Detroit, Polina from Russia, and of course our good friend Matt Rose from Texas. Talk to all of them and they have one thing in common, saving money for several months at home then leaving their jobs to travel the world. No need to explain yourself, everyone here gets it. Their stories instantly gave me courage and inspiration, and reminded me that I am right where I should be right now.
The Navimag Ferry is really a cruise ship for backpackers; cheap, basic, clean, comfortable, and what you make of it. The tickets cost us $370 each, the lowest rate for C cabin passengers sleeping in bunks in the bowels of the ship. These beds were surprisingly cozy, and the C cabin was the cool place to be. The staff served 3 meals per day all at a specific time. Meal times were a blast. The food was better than anything you could make in a camping stove, and the company was great. Everyday we met somebody new at meal time. In the morning we would wake up to music playing over the intercom, that must have been titled something like Soothing Sounds of the Sea, followed by the gentle voice of our resident hostess wishing us good morning ("Passajeros, muy muy muy Buenos dias") and inviting us to breakfast.
Most of the days were spent hanging out on the decks of the ship, taking in the scenery, drinking beverages and sharing stories with other passengers. Matt had many great stories. Now 36, he has traveled every continent except Africa and Antarctica, the two he will visit after S. America. He is an engineer by profession, meaning he could always find good work and save up his money for extended travel. Though a very modest and soft spoken guy, he spoke of his travels at every chance. He traveled alone mostly, leaving his family and girlfriend at home to wonder if he was on some kind of spiritual journey, when really he was making a simple lifestyle choice that he would readily share with a willing soul. He knows Washington State almost as well as I do from a cross-country bike trip 10 years ago, where he actually stayed at a hostel in Colville (my place of birth), and time spent working as an engineer for BayLiner boats. I will most definitely be having beers with Matt someday, and hope to introduce him to my friends.
The first day of the trip was sunny and beautiful. We kicked it on the deck with our new friends for hours, soaking in the sun, taking photos and viewing the abundant sea life. The scenery reminded me of the San Juan islands but far less populated. The second day was cloudy and cool with similar terrain, an in the late afternoon we headed into rough open seas that would last into the early morning. Heeding the advice of the Navimag staff we took Dramamine to prevent seas sickness, which effectively knocked us out cold until dinner. The cafeteria was a hilarious sight at dinner, staff members had to assist passengers with their food trays as the boat rolled and crashed between swells. Several of us went back up to the lounge after dinner to see what would happen if we mixed drinks and Dramamine, but we were too drowsy to stay awake. We slept 14 hours that night, though I did manage to wake up for a beautiful sunrise the next morning (thanks to watery bowels that could not be ignored).
The third day turned rainy in the late morning but the excitement of the journey was still building. It was clear we were moving further south. The terrain was steep and rugged, waterfalls poured from the cloud covered mountains where ice fields and glaciers must have fed them, and small resilient trees somehow anchored on the shores of the rocky channels. This could be Southeast Alaska apart from wind and solid rock that prevent large trees from growing, or the lack of estuaries and river valleys that support abundant wildlife.
In the afternoon we stopped in a small native fishing community called Puerto Eden (the first sight of civilization since Puerto Mont two days earlier) where we picked up a couple of shady characters who were piss drunk on whisky before the boat had left the harbor. The people of Puerto Eden have a fascinating history but their culture has deteriorated in ways very similar to many Native North American cultures, and for many of the same reasons: colonization and exploitation, disease, substance abuse, etc. Still, 250 hearty souls and a handful people who still speak the native tongue reside in Puerto Eden, and part of the Navimag Ferry’s contract with the Chilean government requires them to bring supplies to the village.
In the evening the captain was kind enough to take a detour to the largest glacier in S. America, where the wind was ripping cold down the face of the glacier and the rain was heavy and cold. Suffice to say we can check the largest glacier in S. America off the list even though I can’t recall the name of it.
The partying started at dinner with bottles of wine uncorking at every table. This was the last night on the boat and people did not intend to let it waste. After dinner we had more drinks in the lounge and on the deck, followed by a massive game of bingo back in the cafeteria, then back to the lounge for an all night dance party. By 12am the stars were out on the deck.
The scenery and cooperating weather on the fourth day were phenomenal (huge mountains, glaciers, narrow channels, whales, etc.). Fortunately we took some great photos because I struggle to find ways to describe the scenery. I frequently thought of my friends and family back home who might be willing to take this trip, and how I might be able to convince them (Bart Olson are you listening?). We spent nearly the entire day on the deck, reluctant to even attend meal time for fear of missing something. I was ready for another day on the boat. Not making any choices is a really good feeling and I was really getting used to it. As we emerged from the channels and approached Puerto Natales, however, anticipation for the next adventure had taken over, with the mountains of Torres del Paine visible in the distance.
Navimag by Debbie
We read about the passenger ferry in the Lonely Planet and it said it was a must do for traveling South in Chile. However, when we tried to book our cabins on the higher decks they weren’t available, so we had to get beds in the “bowels of the ship.” I expected to be down in the dark where only the third class citizens dare venture. Food was included but I figured it would leave much to be desired and I didn’t have high expectations for activities on board. I figured it would be a few days of great scenery and not much else. With that said the Navimag ferry completely and pleasantly exceeded all my expectations.
To start, the mattresses in the “bowels” are by far the most comfortable I’ve slept on in South America. I spent many a night sleeping on the rocky ground in Torres Del Paine pining for the comforts of the Navimag bunks. The best part was the curtains on each bed for added privacy. I’ve never slept so good away from home as when I climbed into my cozy bed, closed the curtains, and allowed the waves to rock me to sleep. Awww, bliss!
The ship was decked out with viewing areas in the cafeteria and bar/lounge area, and the top deck was open with benches and plenty of room to walk the complete perimeter. As soon as I stepped on board I had no doubt I’d be spending the majority of my time outside despite my nagging sunburn, which at this point was not quite to the peeling stage (stay tuned for when it gets really good!). This proved to be true even on Day 3 when it pissed rain all day. Most people opted to take in the views from inside the lounge, but the window seats were crowed so Cam and I geared up and stayed outside. We virtually had the deck to ourselves, it’s not everyday you get to see the multiple cascadas (waterfalls) and mountains of the Patagonia channels, not to mention the largest glacier in South America.
We had to make minimal decisions in the four days spent on board. The guides announced everything: when to wake up, when to eat, when to come down for scheduled chats, when we should look off the port or starboard side at points of interests (whales, dolphins, sea lions!), when to buy our bingo cards from the bar, everything. They even announced when we should take the seasick pill they recommended before we headed out to the open sea. It had a semi-cult fell to it as we all swallowed simultaneously, but I’ve always been a sucker for peer pressure. I was especially thankful when they announced we should lie down as the drowsiness kicked in. I happily slept the 15 hours through the rough seas only to drag myself upstairs when they announced dinner (by this time I was programmed). Trying to eat as the cafeteria teeter-tottered and people flew about the room was a great experience, however after I watched a man throw up his Spaghetti Bolognese in the hallway as he was booking it to the side of the boat, I was convinced I would go back to bed and sleep it off before I became his retching companion on the starboard side. I lurched to my comfy bunk as Cam went to experiment with Dramamine and Pisco (he didn’t last very long!). Needless to say, after all the helpful announcements and reminders throughout our days, it was tough to start thinking for myself when we disembarked from the Navimag.
My favorite part about the scenery was the slow build-up of anticipation. Every day as we ventured further south and into the heart of the Patagonia, the scenery changed much to my excitement. The mountains got bigger and more jagged, the tree line became a distinct divide outlining the rocky peaks, and the waterfalls and glaciers became more numerous. Just when we’d be high-fiving because we’d think it couldn’t get any better, we’d turn the corner to another postcard vista. Even on our one rainy day, I could sense the ruggedness of the landscape and the isolation of the territory we navigated through. It wasn’t until we passed Puerto Eden that we started to see other fishing and cargo boats in the water. I was ready to stay on the boat for another four days, I wanted to tell the Capitan to take me all the way to Antarctica, but I didn’t know how to correctly say it in Spanish.
However, what made the Navimag experience so great was the combination of the stunning scenery and all the people we met; if we had taken the same route without the people, the experience wouldn’t have been complete. Striking up conversation on the boat was so easy and we met all kinds of people at different stages in their lives. We spent most of our time sitting on the decks taking in the views while sharing travel experiences and swapping recommendations of places to visit and treks to take. A lot of the people we met had been traveling for months and sometimes even years, covering multiple countries and even continents. It’s quite inspiring to sit down and talk with people who have made traveling a priority in their lives. I’ve often felt like I’m being selfish or irresponsible to leave a good job with benefits and a budding career and say goodbye to all my family and friends to take off for months at a time. It is nice to meet other people who have the same itch and have been able to make it work in their lives. I guess it has helped justify some of the difficult decisions I’ve had to make in the last couple of years. I feel pretty confident that this travel bug isn’t just a phase I’m going through, but one thing I learned from the people on the Navimag is that it doesn’t have to be a phase; it can be a way of life. Thanks Matt, Martin, Robia, other Martin, Anna, Dave, Rachel, Darius, Leroy, Diana, Neal, Dan, Stefan, Polina, and even the drunk native man from Puerto Eden who got locked up in the brig our last night on board! You all made my experience complete.
As people reading this can tell, Cam and I are 100% Navimag groupies. I completely and wholeheartedly recommend this trip to everyone no matter what point of life you are in, just be sure to book the C cabins!
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